Portobell-ohhhhh Road

By Dylan Asher

Street Performers

Prior to 1740 Portobello Road was known as Green’s Lane—a winding country path leading from the Gravel Pits of Kensington, what’s now known as Notting Hill, up to north Kensal Green. Portobello Farm was built in 1740 in the area near Golbrone Road. The farm was given its name from a victory during the War of Jenkin’s Ear, when Admiral Edward Vernon captured the Spanish town of Puerto Bello in the Gulf of Mexico. Green’s Lane then became Portobello Lane, which has now been known as Portobello Road since 1841.

A construct of the Victorian Era, Portobello Road was nothing more than a country lane consisting of hayfields, orchards and other open land for agriculture. However, the road ultimately took form piecemeal in the second half of the nineteenth century, nestling itself between the residential areas of Paddington and Notting Hill. At the time, the still agricultural landscapes had markets few and far between that served as a luxury for the rich inhabitants of its surrounding areas. It offered new jobs to residents in the immediate areas as construction workers, tradesmen, coachmen, and domestic servants. Yet, it still remained unknown to many. It wasn’t until the creation of the Hammersmith and City Lines, and the opening of Ladbroke Grove Station, that the open, rural landscape of the market became swallowed by concrete urban structures. But, the history of the area wasn’t lost. Rather, reimagined and given a new-life.
Looking beyond its history, Portobello Road is rich in culture and history. As it’s sandwiched between two opulent neighborhoods, the residents have come to their own devices to cultivate their own cultural environment. A range of communities within Portobello Road that inhabit the street and the district of Portobello Road contributes to its bright, vibrant, and cosmopolitan atmosphere, as do the man antique and vintage stores lining its streets. In fact, one of the main contributions to the success of Portobello Road is that it perfectly marries vintage and antique culture in confluence with highbrow art—thus, giving its residents a wholesome view of arts and cultures.

                                                A myriad of colors
I visited Portobello Road over the weekend, on both Friday and Saturday and, while I was in the same space physically, the experiences could not have been more starkly different. Friday’s streets were timid and quiet, the flow of traffic—both foot and vehicle—was light and easy. However, come Saturday morning, you wouldn’t believe it was the same place. The Portobello Road Market takes place every Saturday from morning to mid-afternoon. It brings out some of the most eccentric and eclectic personalities that London can offer. The Market capitalizes on two things- Antique and Vintage. From old cigarette cards to tea sets, from Banksy replicas to Paddington bears, everyone pours in from far and near to seek their next treasure.

                                                  Antique Media
The web of markets stretch over a mile and a half. The southern, and more genteel end, concentrates the famous antiques market. Over 1,500 traders set up stands of silver, gold, jewelry, cutlery, and rare collectibles like maps and books. The deals begin in the shops and then pour into the stands on the streets as people sift through decades of collectibles. Once you get to the northern edge you begin to see the grittier and less polished side of the environment. The north is more geared towards up and coming fashion designers and garments. However, the collective buzz of the street exudes artistry.  Actually, there’s a new campaign going on amongst Portobello Road is the Portobello Roads Art Project. “It’s almost an attempt to regenerate our city. To create a visual link between Portobello Road and its market and Golborne and their market.” Said Amy Geller, emerging street artist and self-proclaimed Banksy super-fan. “Although it sucks because it is commissioned so, rather than pulling from the artists already living in Portobello Road and Golborne and Notting Hill, they [The Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea] are focusing more on names than our interests.” Said Geller.

                                       Banksy copies from the (unofficial) Banksy store
Much like the borough of Portobello Road, the people march to the beat of their own drum, too. The emerging art and fashion of Portobello Road almost rivals Shoreditch, but elevates the standard. Rather than focusing of shock value as a means of creating a hip environment, Portobello Road concerns itself more with creating unique and original content and then broadcasting it to the world. The music and art only complement the budding vintage-cosmopolitan scene of Portobello Road and how it gives a modern and fresh take on old classics. Though it’s a family oriented borough, it is not your run of the mill arts district. The vibrantly colored buildings match the auras of its inhabitants—cheerful and unique. And the winding streets of Portobello Road can symbolize the complexity of your experience in the borough.